Welcome to Travel Diaries, a Refinery29 series where we tag along as real women embark on trips around the world and track their travel expenses down to the last cent. Here, we offer a detailed, intimate account of when, where, and how our peers spend their vacation days and disposable income: all the meals, adventures, indulgences, setbacks, and surprises.
Hometown: Brooklyn, NY
Trip Location: Cozumel, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico
Trip Length: 9 days
Annual # Of Vacation Days: Freelancing means I can take however many days off I can afford without alienating both sets of bosses and coworkers.
Transportation
Costs: It would have been $521.97 but I redeemed 34,798 Chase Ultimate Rewards points towards it instead.
Accommodations
Costs: This trip was arranged by my dive shop, Scuba Network, in Manhattan. A five-night stay at Casa Mexicana was included in the package. It also includes hotel accommodations, transportation to and from the dive sites and hotels, breakfasts and lunches on dive days, three days of two-tank boat dives (six dives), a whale shark snorkeling trip, marine park fees, and one dinner. ($1,195)
I added a few more days to my trip without the dive group, so I had to book accommodations for myself in Playa del Carmen. By booking my flight through Chase's travel portal, they sent me a bonus offer for an extra discount for hotel accommodations. I booked a room at La Tortuga for three nights at 13,480 UR points (the equivalent of $202.20).
Total: $1,195
$23.98 - The divemasters recommended getting some reef-safe sunscreen beforehand because it can be very overpriced on the island. Took to Amazon to get a bottle of Sun Bum and a small dry bag to keep my non-diving things dry (obviously) on the boat.
$63.23 - Normally I don't buy travel insurance, but there's going to be a lot of physical activity on this trip. I'm new to diving and didn't want to take any chances. Bought trip insurance from WorldNomads.
$64.42 - Tequila and I are not friends, but as a bartender, it would be a missed opportunity to not attend a tequila tasting. I signed up for a tasting with Tequila Academy. They were nice enough to offer a food pairing upgrade if I switched to a time when a food-pairing tasting was taking place.
$195 - I also needed to pay an additional $195 for the scuba certification referral, which is typical when you want to finish your certification somewhere outside your dive network.
$58.18 - In terms of scuba gear specifically for the trip, everyone had to get an inflatable diving signal to deploy when we are ready to ascend to the surface. Cozumel is known for its drift diving, which means you float with the current. And since the boats aren't allowed to drop anchor, they come to pick you up. The boat crew knows where you are, but the signal indicates you need to be picked up. I also get a few miscellaneous hooks to keep my gear properly secured.
$171.97 - I had to get a dive computer to keep track of personal dive information like depth reached, decompression time, etc.; a buoyancy compensator device (BCD), a vest used to hold the air tank and to assist in ascent and descent through the use of weights and inflating or deflating air into it; and a regulator to, you know, breathe.
6:35 a.m. - I fill up my Nalgene with water but I'm in desperate need for a coffee. Tall dark roast (black) from Starbucks and a morning bun. $5.99
7:56 a.m. - Flight takes off on-time. I put on my noise-canceling headphones, play some movie scores, and snooze.
11:30 a.m. - I'm what they call a human trash can. I ate pretty much everything but a sliver of the sandwich. It was delicious, but now I need to be rolled to my gate. I'm surprised I'm not getting more looks for having scuba fins strapped to my duffel bag.
12:19 p.m. - This plane's crowd is definitely a lot younger and in party and/or in vacation mode. It's a short flight. I spend it on reviewing some of my diving course notes and listening to music. This is finally happening, I'm getting my scuba certification! I started my academic coursework back in November of last year and completed the pool work with flying colors last month. This last step is to finish my open-water certification dives. Then, I can have fun in the ocean and dive some cenotes!
3:30 p.m. - We get to our hotel Casa Mexicana, which sits along the beachfront. I was supposed to share my room with someone else, but she dropped out at the last minute because of a medical injury. I'm ecstatic to have a room to myself.
4:15 p.m. - We meet as a group downstairs with the divemaster, N. from the NYC dive shop and the local affiliate Divemaster, K., who runs the dive shop Carribean Divers. Excluding Divemaster N., there are 10 of us visiting from NYC, nine of whom are diving. Someone brought their mom along, but she's terrified of water. We take cabs to squeeze in an introductory dive to get our feet wet (haha). Cab fare to and from the marine dock and hotel is included in the trip's package. We meet the boat crew and take our first trip out into the ocean. There's less current at this spot they chose, which makes it less nerve-wracking as your first-ever dive. You must always swim with a buddy in case something happens to your air supply. Most people came here as a couple, so they are naturally buddies. I get paired up with solo guy T. and the solo girl (of the daughter-mother duo) is paired with N. My first descend is a bit daunting and my heart is pounding. Once I figure out descending in the ocean, I relax. There's so much life here! Notable critters are a huge lobster and a spotted moray eel.
6:45 a.m. - Get up for breakfast but all I really want is coffee. As far as complimentary breakfasts go, it's really good! There's a big spread of fruit, hot dishes, and omelet and waffle stations. I gorge myself on fruit, eggs, bacon, and mini-waffles. Coffee could use some work, but it's free. I meet a fellow diver from another group - he notices the dive watch I'm wearing, and we chat about our plans. After breakfast, our group meets in the lobby to take cabs to the marine dock. The cabs are part of our trip package.
8:30 a.m. - We set off for our first official certification dive at Palancar Gardens. Based on the confidence of my dive instructor during my pool training, I think I'll be able to do everything in the ocean, but I'm still nervous going into the open ocean. I ungracefully fumble over my long fins while doing my entry into the water. Great start. We do a partial mask flood (purposefully letting water in half our mask and clearing it out) and practice buoyancy control before enjoying the reefs. I'm the first to spot a southern stingray!
11:30 a.m. - We get back on the boat and head to the next destination. Fun fact: Cozumel is unique because of its current along the island, which makes for great drift diving. We'll have a dive specialty in drift diving by the end of this trip. We have lunch on the boat. It consists of ham and cheese sandwiches, pineapple with chili, and beverages.
12:34 p.m. - We prepare for our second dive at Tormentos. We show the divemasters that we can do a full mask removal and clearing. I hate it. I also accidentally knocked my regulator out of my mouth, so I had to clear both my regulator and mask. While I didn't feel very panicked, K. must have seen something and makes sure that I am calm before moving onto the next person. There's a moderate current here. It's amazing how fish and coral work create such a beautiful ecosystem. We spot a huge blue parrotfish and a huge grouper. They have a face only a mother could love.
3:15 p.m. - We walk to the hospital. A hyperbaric chamber is used if a diver experiences decompression sickness (AKA "the bends"). It's rare but it occurs when divers ascend too quickly and do not give the body time to slowly adjust to surface-level pressure. They let us peek inside and give us a rundown on what happens in case you get the bends. This facility has two chambers, a big one that fits multiple people and a smaller chamber on the off chance the big chamber is being used. The medical workers pressurize the chamber until the sick diver is not in pain, then slowly reduce pressure until the person's back to normal. Apparently you can watch movies and eat in it too! This hospital gives you sandwiches, which Divemaster N. says are quite tasty. It's comforting to know divemasters can also get the bends.
3:45 p.m - We're pretty hungry but it's too early for dinner. We head to Casa Denis for some snacking and margaritas. I have a mango margarita, a horchata, and share some guacamole with a couple I'm getting chummy with, G&T. ($8.60) G. is a neurologist and T. is in pharmaceuticals but used to be a nurse. It's nice to know there are medical professionals on board. They've been together and diving for 25 years. A guitarist comes by and plays a few folk songs for us. I love La Llorona, even though the lyrics themselves aren't very romantic and the legend is creepy. I don't have small peso bills, so I tip a dollar per song request. ($2) $10.60
6:45 a.m. - Coffee. I don't feel as tired as I thought I would, but the act of drinking coffee is ritual. Divemaster N. is already at our table; I have a Western omelete and fruit. Solo guy sits next to me, even though there are nine empty chairs. I have a feeling he's into me. How do I slide in that I'm a lesbian? He's super nice, but a bit awkward, too. Sometimes it's hard to have a conversation with him. Most of the other couples aren't up. G&T join us and I chat while N. freaks out about his credit cards. He can't find them and he wants to take all of us out for a celebratory dinner tonight at La Choza, a family-run restaurant. G&T volunteer to help him out while he figures things out. They're really cool. We talk about the different spots they have dived at.
10:30 a.m. - N. thinks I'm carrying too much weight in my buoyancy compensator device (BCD) because I've been using a lot of air to adjust my buoyancy. Weights are needed to "sink" you when you're descending; however, too much weight isn't good either. We swap my 12-pound weights for 10-pounders. I make friends with Dr. D, a hyperbaric chamber specialist who's joining the advanced divers group. He gives me tips on what type of gear to get should I decide to continue with the hobby. Today, we go to Palancar Gardens and explore our first swim-through, a tunnel in the coral formations. It's so cool! I get a bit nervous about hitting the formation but I see it as practice for the cenote. I swim through it perfectly.
11:30 a.m - We see a trumpet fish and barracuda before K. and N. test us on controlled emergency swimming ascents and BCD removal and replacement. Emergency ascent occurs when you run of of air, you can't find your swimming buddy, and and must ascend immediately. The test is to ascend in one breath while humming (to indicate to instructors that you are exhaling), with an arm out like Superman to protect your head, and the manual inflator in the other hand. I pass with flying colors. I spy a spot-winged comb jellyfish while I wait for everyone to finish. Really need to pee. I try to pee while I float and wait, but it's a lot harder than you'd think. You're strapped to gear, the neoprene wetsuit is compressing your body. Now I know why the guys at the dive shop told me to get my own suit: People pee in the rental suits all the time.
12:10 p.m. - Back on the boat, the first thing I do is take care of business. I wonder how the smaller boats go through diving without a toilet on deck. We take in our usual lunch while we motor down to Yucab. The current is really strong here. The last and final skill we need to show the divemasters is the procedure for shared emergency air. For this, you signal to your buddy (in a beheading, "you're dead" movement) that you are out of air. You take your buddy's emergency regulator and replace your "out of air" regulator with the emergency one. You float for a bit and signal that you are okay. And just like that, we are certified! K. is very impressed by our improvement and progress.
6:45 a.m. - It's getting easier to wake up this early. I have such a messed up sleep schedule back home that when my internal clock experiences some semblance of normalcy, it's a piece of cake to wake up at a designated time. It seems like the young couple crowd is having a really hard time with it. Divemaster N. said he requested a stronger pot of coffee; I give it a try. It still sucks. G&T attempt to get coffee at 7-Eleven downstairs. They say it's a notch better, but only just. I have my usual omelet and fresh fruit. I spot my breakfast buddy from my very first breakfast here; he's leaving tomorrow afternoon and we're leaving at the crack of dawn to swim with whale sharks. We say goodbye before heading back upstairs to get my stuff.
8:30 a.m. - The biggest difference between this dive day and the previous days is that we're officially certified divers with a specialty in drift diving! I bring my GoPro along. Dr. D and I chat on the rooftop. We are at Palancar Caves this time. As we're descending, we're gifted with the sight of a spotted eagle ray digging for clams! Most don't get down fast enough to catch it on film, but K. does and gets a bit for his future YouTube channel. We're still equalizing our ears. Safety first! As soon as I'm adjusted, I finally see my first turtle! I love turtles, they're one of my favorite animals. Mr. Turtle is descending from above, but we're moving with the current, we can't really stop in time to see him up close. It's a really cool dive with more swim-throughs. We see another grouper, some conch, garden eels, and a group of newly-born fish before starting our ascent.
12:30 p.m. - We eat our typical boat lunch while we drive to the next site, Paso de Cedral. It's our longest dive yet. The current is really strong in this area and we were moving fast. You can learn a lot about yourself while diving and it's interesting to observe the other divers as well. You notice who is more mindful of their surroundings as we are not allowed to touch the reef, fish, or ocean bottom. It's also a great reflective period, especially with the strong current. You don't have to do much, kind of like going with the EAC in Finding Nemo.
2:40 p.m. - I'm coming out of this with a few points: I don't use a lot of air and I have great buoyancy control, two important aspects that N. is pleased with and reasons why he thinks I'll excel in the cenotes. I have a lot of energy left in me as I'm de-gearing, but it seems like the rest of the group needs a nap. I don't know what it is, but for me, diving seems to be more energizing than not. We pass by a group of stranded divers who ask us to radio their boat. It turns out their one-engine speed boat broke down and is drifting out to sea. We locate it and tug it toward the dive group before tugging it back to its port. Dr. D mentions this is the reason he will always stick to K. and his boats. A bunch of us sit on the roof deck and enjoy the sun. This is our last day on the boat, so we pack up all of our gear and say goodbye to the boat crew.
10:30 p.m. - I go to N.'s room to get his signatures for my dive logbook. With such a packed itinerary, it's difficult to write everything down each day. We go through the dives using his dive computer since it's a lot more detailed than the rental I'm using. It's best to invest in your own, but I didn't want to buy a $300+ computer and then hate diving (now proven to be impossible, I love it). I have to send screenshots of the certification pages to the cenote guide, J. Now it's officially official, I'm a certified diver! T. comes over later to pick up the milk. She insists on paying, but I tell her it's on me since she paid for our guacamole one day. I shower and get ready for our ridiculously early day tomorrow. We need to wake up at the crack of dawn to snorkel with whale sharks!
5:10 a.m. - FML it is early. Whale sharks today, I am so excited but very tired. This has been on my bucket list for as long as diving has. They're the largest fish in the ocean and despite having "shark" in their name, they're gentle giants. They're filter feeders that eat plankton, small fish, and fish eggs. It's still a bit daunting to get into water with something that large, but I'm determined to do it. We have a 5:45 a.m. ferry to Playa del Carmen. It's just Divemaster K. today; N. gave up his spot on the boat to allow the mom to come with us. It's a 10-minute walk to the ferry. We lug our gear (wetsuit, fins, snorkel, and mask) with us. We get antsy, we don't see K. anywhere.
5:40 a.m. - K. gets to us in the knick of time. He buys our tickets, which are included in the trip package. We have to pass through security at the ferry dock. Oddly, backpacks must be scanned but not carry-on luggage? G&T and I sit together on the open deck. We brush on politics and what's next in our lives. I'm tired of this double copywriting-bartending life. There's no time for love or friends and I ask T. how she transitioned from nursing to pharmaceutical marketing. G&T ask where I want to dive next and I'm not sure. At one point, we enjoy the amazing sunrise in silence. For the first time in a very long time I don't think about anything, happily. It's so peaceful.
6:30 a.m. - We arrive at the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen and walk over to a taxi stop to charter a taxi van that will take us from Playa del Carmen to Cancun. Once we load up, I eat a sad ham sandwich the hotel packed for us. I wish it was an omelet. We take an hour-long drive to Cancun to meet the whale shark crew that will take us passed Isla Mujeres, an island off of Cancun, to the whale shark feeding grounds. I take a great nap the entire way to Cancun.
7:45 a.m. - The taxi drops us off at a dock in Cancun where we will load up in a small boat that takes us to the feeding grounds. The boat ride is a little more than an hour long. We drive through huge patches of sargassum seaweed; the seaweed and brown algae blooms exacerbated by global warming. When we get to the whale shark site, I realize it probably doesn't help that there are 30+ boats doing the exact same thing we're doing. Each of us gets two to three turns with a whale shark. We jump off the boat in pairs along with either K. or the boat guide. All of the swimmers who are not guides are now required to wear life jackets to ensure that no one tries to swim underneath the whale sharks. I guess a lot of people were doing that to touch them, which is strictly prohibited.
In the diving coursework, we learn that touching animals or plants is highly discouraged because as much harm as we can be to them, the wildlife can be more harmful to us. Think about it: they're equipped to fend off predators in the ocean. We are not and if something goes wrong, an emergency procedure may be required.
9:08 a.m. - Oh my god, the whale sharks are spectacular! There are no words to describe how incredible swimming next to such an amazing fish is. It's both humbling and inspiring, truly an eye-opening experience that I will never forget. But ow, this first run with them proves that it hurts to swim with them. All of us jump into the water with cameras in efforts to catch the beauties on film. They're such fast swimmers, and the guides yell at you to swim with them, but not to touch them. It's kind of hard to do both when they're moving. At one point I get too close and the big guy almost whips me in the head with his tail. It's awesome!
9:38 a.m. - They really don't want anything to do with humans. On my second run, the other guy (of one of the young couples), the guide, and I are trying to find a shark to swim with. All of a sudden, everyone on the boat yells at us to turn around. Oh my god, I have to dodge a whale shark! The other guy is a barely two yards away from it and couldn't react in time. The shark dives to swim under him! This experience is such an adrenaline rush. The guide beckons us back on the boat. We're both out of breath when the other guy tells everyone the heart attack he nearly had when he saw a wide-open mouth coming his way. I check the footage on my GoPro. I didn't catch our mad scramble on camera.
11:16 a.m. - We take another hour-long boat ride to a beach in Isla Mujeres. The captain sees dolphins so we stop for a few minutes to see if we can find them. Sadly, we don't see them again.
12:05 a.m - We anchor at the beach and jump off to wade in white sand and crystal waters, with a beer in hand of course. The crew prepares lunch, which consists of mahi mahi ceviche, guacamole, chips, and the sweetest cantaloupe I've ever had. Life is good.
3:55 p.m - We hop off the taxi and K. hands each of us our ferry ticket that's included in the package price. But K. tells us that he will divide the cost of today's chartered taxi and add it to our outstanding bill with him at his dive shop. The ferry ride isn't as peaceful. I think I'm starting to feel a burn coming along.
10:31 p.m. - I'm leaving early tomorrow for Playa del Carmen for the totally solo portion of my trip. Most of the group will depart on various days so we say our goodbyes and wish for safe travels. I head back to my room to pack. I chat with Tinder Girl before heading to bed. I tell her I'm thinking about going to Tulum, but I'll have time for a drink at night.
8:00 a.m. - The ride is about an hour long. When we dock, I try to find one of those luggage tricycle guys to bring me and my luggage to my meeting point with my cenote guide, J. at a nearby park. I fail to find a tricycle guy and I lug all of my gear up a gradual hill until I'm at the park. I find J., a super-petite Japanese woman with explosive energy. She's going to be fun, I know it. We shake hands before loading up in a hired taxi. We drive about 20 minutes to our first destination. We will be going to three different cenotes today: Cenotes Kulkulcan and Chak-Mool, which are right next to each other, and Cenote Tajma Ha. Cenote-diving is essentially cavern diving, with a natural light source that's visible at all times.
8:21 a.m. - We turn into a private driveway and pass through dense jungle via a dirt road at a snail's pace. Apparently most cenotes reside on private land. Once a cenote is explored and properly mapped out, the landowners can decide whether or not to open them up to the public. As we slowly drive through the jungle, I fill out paperwork on my health record and a disclaimer that says it's not her fault if I die (yay).
8:27 a.m. - We're the first ones at the cenote! J. is very thorough in her pre-dive briefing. Before we gear up, she leads me from the parking lot to the cenotes to show me the route I will take. She mentions the steps leading into the cenote are very slippery and to hang tight when I have all my heavy gear on. Since freshwater and saltwater have different densities, she will test how much weight I need to use in my BCD in the open-air area of the cenote. She also wants to make sure that I can swim in a way that won't kick up sediment. The water in the cenotes is predominantly still, which means it takes longer to sediment to re-settle, therefore inhibit visibility for other divers. I feel a bit more at ease when she says she's going to test my weights and swimming technique. I hope I don't disappoint. She leads me back to the parking lot and shows me the map of Kukulcan. All cenotes have mapped out routes and she explains exactly what to expect along the route so I am not surprised by anything. She notes that we must exercise more caution to not bump into any formations, which are thousands of years old. We must stay above the guide rope laid on the floor of the cenote and I must always swim behind her, never next to or in front of her. We also have to be more conservative with air consumption. As a recreational diver, I must warn her when I have used up one-third of air, which is significantly less than the warning I had to give in the ocean. I'm not allowed to bring my camera for these two cenotes.
8:43 a.m. - I prep my gear as she looks over my dive log. She also shows me essential hand signals for cavern diving, which are different from signals used in the ocean. Her rig-up is also different from mine: She has two side-mounted air tanks. Cenote and cave guides are required to bring two tanks into the cenotes in case of an air emergency. So comforting... It's not like the ocean, where you can easily perform a controlled emergency ascent. Cenotes are essentially mazes. There are no shortcuts and there are a limited number of ways out.
8:58 a.m. - F@#$%^&%$ the water is cold. J. tests my weights and swimming technique to make sure I don't kick up sediment. I end up using two pounds in my BCD, which is significantly less than the 10 pounds I used in the ocean. She preps me with a high-powered flashlight and down we go. I see a fresh-water turtle within minutes of entering the cenote - I think it's good luck. There are also orange crystal formations within the rocks. Believe it or not, the water is clearer than in the ocean. I take in the panoramic view. It's a whole other world. The light refraction is absolutely beautiful. I don't know what else to say except that you have to be there to understand the beauty of it all. The haloclines (a phenomenon where layers of salt and fresh water meet and cause visual distortion) are fascinating and eerie. You hear this weird, creepy roar that sounds like if you put your ear against a seashell to hear the ocean. The water is also shockingly warmer in this area. J. proceeds to take me away from the guide line to show me a sign with the Grim Reaper and a message that says, and I quote: "Prevent your death, go no farther." Oh gee, thanks! She beckons me closer to the sign, but I want to stay above the guide line and signal with my flashlight "OK"!
9:38 a.m. - We ascend and prep for the next dive in Chak-mool. Again, she lays out what to expect in the cenote and the path we'll take. When we get into the cenote, the water does feel refreshing, but the cold sets in quickly. Oddly, being fully-submerged feels warmer than being on the surface. This cenote has shell and coral fossils embedded in the limestone. We pop up into an air pocket, where she explains what cenotes are and its significance to the Mayan people. I'm not really surprised to find bats in the dome, but I wonder how they got there... I'm cold. I want to go back down. I notice that while I have good control over buoyancy if I stop to hover, I ball up and have the urge to orient myself upright. It's not ideal in a cavern because you run the risk of bumping into a formation. This is a relatively easy diving cenote with a lot of wiggle room, but some cenotes have narrow spaces that require a flattened body posture.
10:48 a.m. - We ascend and quickly pack up to drive to the next cenote, Tajma Ha. As we go through the jungle, J. and I talk about the cenote when all of a sudden, the driver says "Oh my God, a baby jaguar!" He stops the car abruptly and we look out for it or its mother. He says it ran across the road. I think it's definitely a good omen considering jaguars have significant meaning in Mayan culture. The Jaguar are considered the rulers of the underworld and represent power. We don't see it again. We check out of the property and head onwards.
11:42 a.m. - We prepare to dive Tajma Ha, the largest cenote I'll dive today. In Mayan, "Tajma" translates to crystal clear and "Ha" translates to water. It doesn't disappoint. Once we're in the water and pass under the snorkelers, I see multiple light beams, which are bright and vibrant. It looks like something out of a sci-fi movie. Think "Beam me up, Scotty!" Tajma Ha actually three cenotes connected together: Tajma Ha, Sugar Bowl, and Esmerelda. We surface in Sugar Bowl, named aptly for its round dome that lets in the most astonishing light. I make friends with small catfish while J. explains more about the cenotes. Esmerelda, as you can guess, is named for the green light it scatters. Towards the end of the dive, I start to get congested from the cold. It makes it more difficult to equalize my ears, and I need a good moment to do it properly. I give J. the "equalizing issue" signal; J. signals back to take my time before we continue. Soon after, I give J. the warning sign that I've used up a third of my air, but it turns out we're really close to the exit anyway. No need for alarm.
6:30 p.m. - I meet J. at El Pirata, a seafood restaurant away from the main strip. She apologizes for the wetsuit mishap and I assure her it's not a big deal. The staff greets her with hugs and jokes with us throughout the meal. I get a horchata and we share a mixed seafood ceviche and grilled octopus. ($15.50 with tip)We go into the dives, her virgin cave exploratory dives the following week, and what's led us to this point in our lives. She's a free spirit and as an older, single woman, she does not fit into Japan's mold of what a woman her age should be doing. Mexico suits her better. $15.50
9:17 p.m. - We part ways and she recommends that I walk the main strip to find the candy for my Mexican friends. Looking at the shops, I don't think I'll find it in the touristy area. I head back to the hotel for my second shower of the day. While the water is warmer, it also had an odd metallic smell with it. I make sure not to open my mouth. Tinder girl and I arrange to meet up for a drink tomorrow night. I try to turn in early but I can't sleep until past midnight.
10:10 p.m - I speed walk back to the hotel and run to the toilet. Montezuma is getting his revenge. I wonder what caused it. I have a feeling it's the crappy mango. Once I feel somewhat better, I pack up my scuba gear and liquor before heading to bed. I also pop some Asian medicine to help with my stomach.
9:18 a.m. - I head back to the hotel and get ready for the day. I want to check out this glass studio, Fabrica de Vidrio Soplado, that sells hand-blown glass. I used to do glasswork, so it will always have a special place with me. It's on the outskirts of Playa del Carmen; Google says a bike ride takes only five minutes longer than a drive. I think biking there will be a fun adventure! I leave the hotel and walk down the avenue; I'm pretty sure I saw some rental bikes when I was walking back from the colectivo yesterday. The shop isn't open - I try another shop I saw. Nothing's open yet. It takes me a while to find some some tourist attraction guys to help me out. They say I'm really early and the bike shops don't open until later on. They attempt to sell me on a tour to Chichen Itza and I politely decline as I cross over to a quieter avenue. I scour Google and find that Playa Bike Rentals is opening soon. I walk towards the shop and admire the vibrant flowers on the trees. Clearly I look lost when I hit a cul-de-sac, because a guy in biking attire asks if I am looking for a bike shop. Turns out he manages the shop, which is run out of someone's house... no wonder I couldn't find it. He rents me a bike at the minimum 24-hr bike rate. $13
4:23 p.m. - It starts to rain. Hard. Not great for the candy, but I can't help it and laugh as I ride through puddles. I stop by the hotel to drop off the day's haul and shower. I make sure to grab both an umbrella and a lightweight rain jacket before turning in my bike. I ride through more puddles and back to the cul-de-sac to return the bike. In hindsight, it probably would've been cheaper to take a cab to the glass studio, but where's the fun in that? Bike guy asked if my glass hunt was a success. Very much so!
5:50 p.m. - The bike shop isn't far from the tequila tasting, so I walk. It's taking place at Axiote, a warm, modern restaurant. It's so cute.
9:08 p.m. - I find Eurphoria dubbed in Spanish on TV. Hello, Zendaya in a suit. I'm somehow able to shove all of my purchases into my bags. I do a good sweep of the room before turning in.
10:34 a.m. - This legroom is amazing. We're up in the air in no time, and the flight attendants pass around warm a warm towel and nuts as a starter. Lunch includes a smoked salmon side, a fruit salad, and beef and mashed potatoes. The luxury. Dessert is some sort of banana dessert I can live without. I try to watch John Wick but am quickly annoyed by AA's UX design. I try to take a nap as we're already descending. It's only now that I realize I'm an idiot and the flight is actually only three-hours long. I have no idea why I thought it was longer. I blame it on the lack of sleep.
2:00 p.m. - Landing at JFK. I call a car while I wait for my bag. The priority luggage tag is a very nice touch. It's one of the first bags on the carousel and it gives me such relief that I don't have to stand and wait all day. Find my car in the chaos and text my sister when I'm close to the apartment. She lets me in and we debrief on my adventure. $45
Daily Total: $264.58
How did you prepare for this trip?
Originally, I was supposed to go to Honduras with a friend who's already certified- she bailed, but my dive shop had this trip posted on their whiteboard. This trip was born out of necessity to finish my scuba certification within the time restrictions set by the diving associations. I decided that I was in a good position financially to start learning diving, and I bought a Groupon for a diving course. The course involved an academic portion that can be done online at your own pace. It's followed by a review with an instructor before you head for pool classes that are led by a divemaster who will test you on skills and evaluate whether or not you're ready to demonstrate these skills in the deep blue. Some people need more pool time than others. Once you get the go-ahead, the final step is to do 4-5 open-water dives in the ocean with a divemaster. If you can demonstrate your understanding of crucial skills, you are certified on the last certification dive! My dive shop organizes several trips a year to varying dive sites around the world. I played around with several destinations before choosing this trip.
As a safety rule, you shouldn't fly 24 hours after the last dive because of the extreme pressure changes. So, I decided to tack on a few days to myself in Playa del Carmen. Since I was already there, I figured might as well dive some cenotes. My instructor told me to contact Scuba Freedom, which specializes in cave and cenote diving. The owner, J., suggested some easy-diving cenotes and requested that once I was certified, to send her screenshots of the certification pages in my diving logbook. As proof that you are certified and to keep track of your diving record, divers keep a log in case future dive shops want proof you are capable of diving their destination. Each instructor has a stamp or stickers as a personal seal. It's also a way to track equipment and weights used, weather, depths reached, instructors' notes, and wildlife seen at certain areas.
My best friend visited Tulum a few years back. She recommended Taquiera Honorio, El Camello Jr., Antojitos La Chiapaneca, and Burrito Amor. She advised that I not bother with Hartwood considering that it is ridiculously expensive and there's an abundance of cheap food in Tulum.
In Cozumel, avoid the main strip along the water. It's catered to the cruise ship people. Walk the streets deeper in, it's a lot more interesting and cheaper.
In my search for things to do, I learned about Temazcal ceremonies, which are Mayan body purification ceremonies performed in sweat lodges. Participating in a Temazcal is now on my bucket list. I tried really hard to work it into my itinerary, but a lot of places require a two-person minimum, or my dates did not align with group ceremonies.
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