Adélie penguins on an iceberg near Paulet Island at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

By Henry Fountain.

Photographs by Tom and Munita.

Warming linked to climate change has occurred faster on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula than anywhere else on the planet. That and other factors have led to a decline in Adlie populations.

It is a different story on the eastern side.

The western side of the peninsula is a complete train wreck, according to Heather J. Lynch, who studies penguin populations and how they are changing.

Dr. Lynch organizes penguin-surveying expeditions to the peninsula, the northernmost part of theAntarctica, using satellite imagery in her work. Three of her current and former students did the counting at the islands on the eastern side of the peninsula.

Their work showed that the populations there have not changed much over the last two decades. As global warming continues and Adlie populations decline in other parts of the continent, the Weddell may remain an important refuge for the birds.

Adélie penguins at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
ImageAdélie penguins at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
Adélie penguins at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
With no safe place to come ashore, expedition members released a drone near a penguin colony at Cockburn Island.
ImageWith no safe place to come ashore, expedition members released a drone near a penguin colony at Cockburn Island.
With no safe place to come ashore, expedition members released a drone near a penguin colony at Cockburn Island.
Penguins at the Paulet Island colony, one of the largest, with roughly 100,000 nests.
ImagePenguins at the Paulet Island colony, one of the largest, with roughly 100,000 nests.
Penguins at the Paulet Island colony, one of the largest, with roughly 100,000 nests.

It is a confirmation that the climate has not changed as much as the population would have you believe.

The gyre that keeps the pack ice within the sea is what makes the sea notoriously icy. The ice makes it hard for ships to navigate. The explorer Ernest Shackleton's ship, the Endurance, was crushed by ice a century ago. The wreck was found last month.

Dr. Lynch's students have done penguin surveys from ships of opportunity, often sailing on cruise ships in return for giving lectures and helping out. Regulations limit shore visits to a specific set of colonies on the western side of the peninsula.

The January trip was aboard a vessel that went around the tip of the peninsula into the northwestern Weddell.

Adélie penguin parents and chicks at Devil Island.
ImageAdélie penguin parents and chicks at Devil Island.
Adélie penguin parents and chicks at Devil Island.
Penguins in the water near D’Urville Island, the northernmost of the Joinville Island group.
ImagePenguins in the water near D’Urville Island, the northernmost of the Joinville Island group.
Penguins in the water near D’Urville Island, the northernmost of the Joinville Island group.

The three researchers used drones and hand-counting to determine the number of chicks at colonies on Joinville, Vortex, Devil and other islands.

The New York Times.

Ms. Flynn said hand-counting takes time. Counters can be used to identify a specific area within a colony, or to count all the birds within it. The counting at the Penguin Point colony on Seymour Island took two days. Each year, adlies produce two chick per breeding pair.

An Adélie chick at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
ImageAn Adélie chick at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
An Adélie chick at Tay Head on Joinville Island.
An older chick at Paulet Island.
ImageAn older chick at Paulet Island.
An older chick at Paulet Island.

It gets tedious, but it is an amazing job to be doing.

There are an estimated 3.8 million breeding pairs of Adélies at colonies all around the continent. They use their beaks to gather stones. In the Southern Hemisphere spring, parents take turns guarding and feeding their chick offspring, as they hatch around November. The adlies eat only a small crustacean called krill, but they also eat fish.

The Paulet Island colony.
ImageThe Paulet Island colony.
The Paulet Island colony.
In the Drake Passage on the return from the penguin survey. The crossing between the peninsula and South America is often stormy with high seas.
ImageIn the Drake Passage on the return from the penguin survey. The crossing between the peninsula and South America is often stormy with high seas.
In the Drake Passage on the return from the penguin survey. The crossing between the peninsula and South America is often stormy with high seas.
Medley Rocks, D’Urville Island.
ImageMedley Rocks, D’Urville Island.
Medley Rocks, D’Urville Island.

The western side of the peninsula has been experiencing problems due to the lack of ice and krull. Warming has caused sea ice to decline, so as a result, krill have become less abundant.

They don't have enough food to eat because they are so picky on the peninsula.

Populations have declined by as much as 90 percent in some parts of the western side, and the bright orange- beaked penguins have largely taken over.

Penguin Point at Seymour Island.
ImagePenguin Point at Seymour Island.
Penguin Point at Seymour Island.
Alex Borowicz, a post-doctoral researcher at Stony Brook University, counting penguins on Vortex Island.
ImageAlex Borowicz, a post-doctoral researcher at Stony Brook University, counting penguins on Vortex Island.
Alex Borowicz, a post-doctoral researcher at Stony Brook University, counting penguins on Vortex Island.

As the world warms, models suggest that the Ross Sea in West Antarctica will be the last place to become unfavorable to adlies.

As a marine protected area, the Weddell would protect the penguins and other life there from human activities like fishing, as ice cover declines from warming and the area becomes more accessible.

She said that the finding that populations are stable doesn't mean that climate change isn't happening.

A penguin in the Antarctic Sound at the northwestern edge of the Weddell Sea.
ImageA penguin in the Antarctic Sound at the northwestern edge of the Weddell Sea.
A penguin in the Antarctic Sound at the northwestern edge of the Weddell Sea.