A Ukrainian tour operator and unwelcome visitors

I believe that Russian intelligence never made it to the desk of Putin.

The walls of OB are covered in revolutionary paraphernalia. To get into the restaurant, one needs a password, a Ukrainian phrase meaning, "You fight, and you will win."

It has evolved from a secret password to a message of resistance.

Julia Kulik and her husband, a couple named Enjoy Ukraine, were with me when I dined there in OB.

They made arrangements for me to go to Ukraine that year, and we became fast friends. We ziplined across the Dnieper River, watched a professional soccer match, and explored the parks and cathedrals of Kyiv.

We got together for dinner when they came to New York with their daughter. When my family was changing planes in Kyiv, they came to the airport to join us for a meal.

We exchanged emails as Russian troops massed at the border. Julia told me that in case of an invasion, they would come to the U.S.

After war broke out, they moved further south to stay with friends in Vinnitsa.

When I was in the area in 2016 I saw that the Ukrainians were fighting their neighbor in the Donbass region. The upbeat outlook and cheery professionalism of the couple seemed to be a reflection of the hopeful energy I had found everywhere I went.

Despite challenges the country is facing and the looming presence of Russia, these young entrepreneurs see a way to marshal the country's identity and considerable cultural assets and resources to boost both tourism and national self-esteem.

Julia Kulik and a friend were at a soccer game. The photo was taken by Arnie Weissmann.

The situation has changed a lot. Julia gave me a sober update after I spoke to her on Monday.

She said that she was okay. She said that the air base was close enough to send the family into bomb shelters when it would come under attack. They were safe.

She and Polina would cross the border into Romania and then travel to the Netherlands. Alex would escort her to the border, but men under the age of 60 are not allowed to leave the country.

She said that she would stay and protect her country if she did not have a child. My daughter's safety is the priority for me. And for Alex as well. I am not sure what will happen in an hour or tomorrow.

I was not the only person who reached out to her since the crisis began. Everyone is concerned. People from Canada, the U.S., Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia and other countries have written to offer help. There are accommodations. Financial help.

She responds to all offers with a website to donate to the Ukrainian armed forces.

Julia said that there were two tourists coming towards the end of the year, one American and one from Pakistan.

She said that business began to return at the end of May last year. We had several reservations by the end of the year. It felt like a breath of fresh air. Concerns about what was going on between Russia and Ukraine increased in January. People would say, "Maybe we will come in autumn" when we started receiving cancellation notices. No one will come after the invasion starts.

Julia doesn't think the situation will be resolved quickly, and even if the fighting were to end soon, there is already a lot of damage to the country's infrastructure.

She said it would take many years to rebuild. I love my country. I enjoy my job. I like meeting people from all over the world. I am proud to be Ukrainian. I am proud to show my country and culture.

Julia had sent me an email with her long list of well-wishers. She wrote at the end.

Spread information about what is happening in Ukraine at rallies and protests. Only the whole world can defeat this scum, and people of the whole world should know the truth. The whole of Europe is being defended by Ukraine.

You fight, and you will win, that's the call to arms again.

Julia signed off from her email with not a call to arms, but a call to conscience.

She wrote that "Don't be indifferent."

Follow Julia on Facebook.