Fur has suffered a bigger image implosion than any other product. It used to be a status symbol for the rich, rock stars, and royalty, but it has become stigmatized due to its association with animal suffering and the ostentatious display of wealth.
Chinese shoppers and the global trend of fur on anorak hoods have helped the industry through decades of public protests and corporate boycotts. The $25 billion industry is seeking redemption, arguing that fur has its rightful place in the era of careful consumption.
Furmark is a certification program that aims to ensure animal welfare and sustainable practices at every step of the supply chain and ultimately bring back business. Consumers can be sure that animal rearing and environmental standards were maintained in the best possible way by tracing the farm where a fox or sable was kept and where it was dyed and dressed.
Protesters are in front of a store in New York.
Furmark could be the last stand for an industry that has been beaten down by trade bans, squeamish fashion houses, and a public sensitized to animals' well-being. Canada Goose will stop using fur in all of its products by the end of the year. This is the last year that fur products will be sold at the store.
The opposition to fur has become part of the political mainstream. Israel was the first country to stop selling fur in 2021. A bill was adopted by the French parliament in November that banned farms from breeding animals exclusively for their fur. Italy, home to fur stalwart Fendi, announced in December that it was banning fur farming. The U.K. banned the rearing of animals for fur 20 years ago, and is considering a law that would ban all sales and imports of fur products.
After its launch in September, Furmark ran into trouble. Kering SA, the luxury conglomerate, announced that it will stop using fur in all of its brands. In its 45 global editions, the magazine banned the display of fur.
Frédéric Godart, associate professor of organizational behavior at Insead, the French business school, says that the battle appears to be lost in the West. The issue is not whether fur is sustainable. The issue is fur itself.
The International Fur Federation acknowledges that it is late in getting a certification program off the ground. Furmark is the industry's second attempt at self-policing, as it didn't cover the entire supply chain or set standards that went beyond national welfare rules.
China, the world's top fur exporter, remains partially absent from the current program. China didn't conform with independent inspections of the operations, so the 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 800-381-0266 Furmark has a major problem because the public is concerned about the conditions of breeding and farming.
All Furmark-labeled products are made from animals that adhere to closely defined welfare programs. The use of chemicals and safety are some of the things that must be passed by the dressers. Each item has a code that shows its journey from cage to coat.
Furmakers are trying to use the industry's sustainable argument as a weapon against faux fur, which is usually made of synthetic materials that have been criticized for adding to microplastics piling up in oceans. Aron Liska, whose family-owned Austrian luxury fur brand Liska & Co., founded in 1947, is part of Furmark, says he cannot think of a product that is more sustainable than a fur coat.
The new code of conduct requires IFF members to embrace it or they will be kicked out of the organization. Farmers who don't meet Furmark standards are not allowed to sell their skins.
Mark Oaten acknowledges the tough road ahead. Establishing Furmark among trappers, farmers, and retailers is one thing, but making it a recognizable emblem for consumers will be the next challenge. There is an issue of broad resistance to fur because it is associated with an elite who place their personal prestige over animal welfare. There is a group of consumers who are against fur regardless of how sustainable it is. Some people will never eat meat and some people will never fly. I am in the business of respecting everyone's choices.
The global fur market has shown it can deal with adversity. Despite the drop in Europe, the industry has grown by 40% in the last 15 years. The fur market in China has more than doubled in the last five years.
Farmers in Canada and Finland quickly stepped in to help after Danes ordered the killing of more than 15 million mink over Covid-19 concerns. Fur producers see the Furmark standard as a way to separate themselves from the cash-and-cruelty image that has long haunted the fur trade, while updating core products along the way.
Cesare Gavazzi is the CEO of Fureco, a part of Furmark. First of all it must be accepted again.
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