Ponferradina: The pilgrimage that changed one football obsessive's life

Chris Pidgeon at the town hall balcony during Ponferradina promotion celebrations
Since the ninth century, pilgrims have walked Camino de Santiago. It is a spiritual journey that leads to the tomb of St James at Compostela in north west Spain.

However, few people have experienced a footballing awakening.

Chris Pidgeon did.

The 41-year old fell in love with a club playing in the third tier of the country's football league and has dedicated much of his life to them.

Pidgeon feels a satisfying symmetry when he spends three weeks hiking the Way of St James. A hike that started in St Jean-Pied-du-Port, France, and climaxed in Ponferrada, Ponferradina's penultimate major stopping point, is not in Compostela.

Pidgeon tells BBC Sport that he left a part of himself there and has continued to search for it ever since.

He has been a sort of unofficial mascot for club and moved to the city to celebrate promotion to the second-tier with players on the townhall balcony. He also built a Ponferradina Museum in his home, which boasts nearly 3,000 items, and even appeared on Iranian TV in recent weeks.

The father of two admits that he is obsessed and has moved back to York with his family.

"I've always loved football, but I saw Ponferrada stadium and it had an almost unexplainable effect on me. Many people have spiritual experiences while doing the Camino Walk, maybe my calling to El Toralin?"

"It was spine-tingling, I got chills. El Bierzo is a huge part of my heart.

Pidgeon was invited by Ponferradina fans to speak before thousands.

This was a decade ago. It led to Pidgeon moving to Aquilianos in 2014. He cycled to Ponferradina's 42 league matches and covered 19,000 km on his bike during his first year there.

He explains, "At that time, my youngest daughter had been born." "I was in Santander at the time my wife gave birth, so I had no choice but to rush back and be there for the birth. The following weekend, we had the chance to get promoted, so it was truly a dream few hours.

"When I tell people that I moved to Spain for the sun and sea, they respond with a sarcastic smile. It's actually cold and mountainous. There are a few rivers and a Templars castle dating back to the 12th Century. It's a fairytale location.

"I saw beauty everywhere. I enjoy walking in the mountains and meeting pilgrims as they pass through the city. The people, the warmth and the food are all things I love about the area.

"I feel a permanent connection to the people now that my daughter was born there. It's an extended family.

The Englishman has traveled all across Spain to watch Ponferradina

Pidgeon realized his dream to join a Ponferradina party and traveled via Copenhagen to see his beloved side return to the second tier in the play-offs.

He was invited to the changing room and he enjoyed a radio interview. Fans wanted to take a photo with him in the city. The excitement grew from there.

"I was invited by the mayor to meet him at the town hall. The media then asked me to give a speech in front of 6,000 people. When the players began singing, Chris is on Fire! He recalls it was an incredible experience.

"I could not believe it. I still pinch myself." It is my best weekend by a long distance, other than the births of my children."

Pidgeon is a socio-season-ticker holder and returns to Ponferradina between 10-14 times per season. However, he has not been in a position to travel since the Covid pandemic.

His last visit was to Tenerife in March 2020. He spent the night just outside the airport before the players brought him sandwiches and coffee on their arrival.

He is expected to return to the match against Real Valladolid on October 2nd as Ponferradina, third in the table after four games, pushes for promotion to La Liga in this 100th anniversary season.

He says, "If you are looking for an atmosphere similar to the German Bundesliga, the Spanish Segunda is not the place for you."

"But it's beautiful in its own right - the passion is the same, people love their club as anyone else, and it doesn’t matter if there are five people singing together or 50,000. The feeling of being part is the same.

"For me, there's no better place than El Toralin stadium Fondo Norte singing with my friends."