Tokyo Olympics: Sport climbing makes its debut

Last update on. From the section OlympicsRadio 1's Jordan North faces his fears with Shauna Coxsey, a climber.Tokyo Olympic Games on BBC Dates: 23 Jul-8 Aug Time in Tokyo: BST+8. Listen live on BBC TV, BBC iPlayer and BBC Red Button; Listen live on BBC Radio 5 Live, Sports Extra, and Sounds; Live text and video clips available on BBC Sport app and website.With competition starting on Tuesday, climbing will be the final new Olympic sport to make its debut at Tokyo 2020.Skateboarding, mountain biking, and surfing are all making their debuts. Now, the focus is on the walls at the Aomi Urban Sports Park.We will walk you through the entire sport, from its history to who you should be following.What is sport climbing?This event exemplifies the new Olympic motto "faster, higher and stronger, together". Competitors climb walls using fixed foot and hand holds in three disciplines.When will it take place?The men's competition starts on 3 August with the finals on 5 August. The women's competition begins on 4 August with finals on 6.What events are included in the Olympics?Tokyo has two gold medals available, and they include combined events for men and women.Forty climbers will be on the ground, 20 per competition. Each nation is allowed only two climbers.Climbing events typically include three distinct disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. But for the Olympic debut of the sport, they were combined into a bumper combination event.Speed will be an event at the Paris Games 2024, along with a joint bouldering/lead contest.What is the difference between these three disciplines?Speed: Two competitors race to the top on a 15m tall wall with a five-degree overhang. To stop the clock, they must hit a buzzer. Each competition has a different route.Bouldering: Climbers use their turns to complete routes (known as problems) on a 4.5m-high structure in as few as possible. They can make as many attempts as they want within a given time. Scores are determined based on the total number of problems that have been solved or not. Between qualification and finals, the problems are reset and climbers have two minutes to examine the problem before finals.Lead: Competitors must be able to climb a 15m wall in six minutes. The route will be changed between qualification rounds and the finals. Athletes are permitted to view the finals before they start.Janja Garnbret, Slovenia, has won consecutive combined world titlesWhat is the Olympic competition?QualificationEvery climber competes in speed and bouldering - in that order.Climbers can attempt two speeds - one per lane - and then their fastest time is recorded.Bouldering requires climbers to take on four boulders, with a maximum time limit of five minutes each boulder.Climbers are led one at a while and their heights are recorded.Rankings are calculated by adding the climbers' scores in each of the three disciplines. The top eight climbers advance to the finals.FinaleEach climber's scores are reset after each competitor competes again in speed, bouldering, and lead - in that exact order.To determine their ranking in speed, climbers participate in three elimination races.All climbers must attempt each boulder in turn, before they can move on to the next. Each boulder has a four minute time limit.Climbers are led one at a while and their heights are recorded.Rankings are calculated by adding the climbers' positions in each of the three disciplines.Adam Ondra is five-time champion of the world.Who are the stars of today?Shauna Coxsey, the only British-qualified athlete, will compete in this final competition after she retires from the Games.Since receiving an epidural in 2019 for knee surgery, the 2019 combined and boulder-world bronze medallist had to deal with back pain.Adam Ondra is the man to watch at the men's event.Although the Czech is a five time world champion, he has just recovered from a shoulder injury. He is now weaker in speed discipline.