'Gone to hell': The battle to save Europe's oldest lake

Lake Ohrid was formed over 1.3 million years ago. It is home to many unique species.Dimitar Pendoski walks to the end of a rickety path, passes sunbathing children, and then sweeps back a tarpaulin that protects his lakeside restaurant, which was recently closed by officials, under pressure from UNESCO.North Macedonia's government is trying to enforce environmental protection rules. They have shut down Pendoski’s restaurant, which he built himself, in order to prevent Lake Ohrid being added to the UN's endangered list.Pendoski told AFP that this way everyone loses-the local economy, the employees and most importantly, the tourists, because there is no place to go to the beach. This point was hotly contested even by environmentalists.Because of its unique animal- and plant life, prehistoric ruins, and Byzantine churches Lake Ohrid and the surrounding areas have been UNESCO world heritage sites for four decades.Fewer than a dozen locations in the world have been awarded this status for their culture and nature, which is a significant bonus for Lake Ohridand's marketing efforts.The UN has stated that the Ohrid region will be placed on the "in peril" list at a high-level meeting in July due to concerns about uncontrolled urbanisation, pollution and other issues.If North Macedonia cannot perform diplomatic miracles the lake will not be mentioned along with other marvels like Australia's Great Barrier Reef.Konstantin Georgieski, the mayor of Ohrid, is at the center of a complex web of government agencies from both local and national that are charged with solving the problem.The international dimension of the lake in Albania complicates his mission. Their officials are also participating in discussions with UNESCO.Georgieski doesn't panic.The lake is home to a major tourist industry, which has both benefited the local economy and caused environmental damage.He says that the UNESCO decision is not going to bring about the end of the world. However, he points out that heritage status does not provide funding."After 30 years' of neglect, it's normal for them (UNESCO) to lose patience.""Cancer of Lake"In 1979, UNESCO added the Macedonian shore of the lake as a world heritage item to the list. The entry was expanded to include the Albanian shore in 2019.Ohrid was known as a small settlement during Yugoslavia. It was known for its hospitals and training posts for athletes.However, tourism development began to grow along the lakeshore after Yugoslavia's disintegration and Macedonia's secession.Esplanades, five storey hotels, restaurants, bars, and other amenities have been built. Along with them, apartment blocks were created, which are a satellite to the old town.To build on land that was protected, entrepreneurs used legal loopholes. Sometimes they even connected to the sewerage system.UNESCO says that one-third of the buildings in the Ohrid region dump their waste directly into the lake.Nikola Paskali, an archaeologist and diver who spent over two decades on the lake, says "Everything is going to hell."Dimitar Pendoski claimed that his restaurant was closed despite receiving all necessary permits.He sometimes searches for Bronze Age relics. Other times, he looks for junkTVs, toilets, and even full-size bathtubs.He says that "litter is the cancer in the lake" and accuses the government of doing little for biodiversity protection in the lake, which was formed over 1.3 million years ago. The lake is home to many unique species.UNESCO highlighted numerous problems, including illegal buildings, logging, fish farms, and river diversions, as well as haphazard road construction.This is largely due to the desire of the region to be a tourist hub.Katarina Vasileska, a grassroots environmental group SOS Ohrid, says that if we start now, it will take years and decades to repair the damage we've done."This is not Ibiza"However, cleaning up the lake is not without risks.Recently, Mayor Georgieski ordered the demolition of several structures that were built on top of the lake and used as nightclubs or restaurants.He says, "It's hard to destroy someone’s property in small towns like ours." "I am now a personal enemy to these people."He said that business owners must change their mindset and added: "This isn't Ibiza."Konstantin Georgieski, Ohrid's mayor, has ordered the destruction a number of nightclubs and restaurants on the lakeside. However, it has made him enemies.Georgieski envisions a town that is open to sustainable numbers of tourists who are attracted more by nature and culture than partying.UNESCO stated in its latest report that restoration work had caused damage to the authenticity of certain churches and that uncontrolled development was threatening the unique wood-beamed buildings that make up the old town.Restaurateur Pendoski doesn't disagree with UNESCO and the mayor. However, he claims he was shut down despite having all the permits required.He says, "We all share the goal to have more guests while protecting the lakes and nature. But there must be some local economic growth."However, environmentalists claim that comparing economic development with ecological concerns is a false debate.Diver Paskali says, "We must keep the lake clean or else we will lose everything and we will lose tourist."Vasileska, an activist, also pointed out that permits are not a sign of approval for pollution.She said, "You can employ 30 people but pollute the lake for 50,000."Explore more Macedonians send SOS messages from Europe's oldest lake to further explore2021 AFP