There is a sea breeze in your face and a dolphin surfing the bow wave. You can take the ferry from Scotland's rugged west coast to Scotland's Hebrides islands.
A scattering of more than 50 islands, islets and skerries is like a world unto itself, with a beauty that is off the charts. From the ragged mountains of Skye to the snow-white beaches and cerulean seas of Harris, these islands lift spirits.
Make the most out of every adventure with help from our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox.Some of Europe's most attractive beaches are on the Scottish islands, but you'll need to be made of stern stuff to brave the waters and don't expect to return home with a tan. There are seals and whales, otter, dolphins and porpoises to be seen. Life has traditionally been a tough, self-reliant affair due to the isolation of Edinburgh and London.
Spending time in the Hebrides is about being outside. There are many great walks throughout the islands, from pacing the sandy beaches of Tiree to the rugged challenge of the Cuillin Hills or the Paps on Jura. Sea kayaking is an excellent way to get out on the water. High winds can make it difficult to ride a bicycle on ferries. Throw yourself into the wilds no matter what the weather is like by lacing up the hiking boots, grabbing binoculars, and fortifying yourself with a dram.
It is so friendly that even strangers stop for a chat, and it is the home of several of the world's best whiskies.
With its brooding twin hills, the Paps, providing habitat for an enormous deer population, the island of Jura is a great place to visit. The Corryvreckan whirlpool is located at the north of the island. The author said it was a very un- get-at-able place.
The distilleries on Islay and Jura, with their magnificent 10-year-old, Bowmore, which malts its own barley, Laphroig, and the Isle, are top of the list. Tours and tastings are run by all. You will be taken further behind the scenes on more expensive tours. You can call ahead or book online.
You can eat Cracking seafood (langoustines and crabs fresh off the boat, hand-dived scallops, and tasty mussels and oysters), days spent roaming machair-fringed bays, and watch wildlife. If you want to see all of the distilleries in one day, you can hop on the SeaSafaris. birdwatching trips and visits to the Corryvreckan whirlpool are included in their tours from Port Ellen.
For the number of visitors they get in the spring and summer, it's a good idea to book early. You can stay in a cottage at the southern end of Laggan Bay or at the Port Charlotte Hotel, where you can get the best of seafood and whiskey.
Hebridean Air Services flies from Oban to Colonsay on Thursdays. Port Askaig is on the east coast and Port Ellen is in the south. Cal Mac runs ferries.
There is a car ferry that goes between Port Askaig and Feolin. There is no direct link to the mainland. Jura passenger ferry runs from the mainland to Craighouse in the summer.
If you're a fan of whisky and wilderness, you might want to check out the distilleries.
If you're looking for serious mountains, it might not be for you.
All of the islands are beautiful, but the scenic high notes are hit by wild mountains and spectacularly eroded waters. This is an island that slows the pace for a spell and embraces nature.
Birds of prey can be seen above the highest peaks and otter can be seen along the shore. Both the Atlantic gray and the common seal have Roman noses.
Tobermory is an instant heart-stealer, with its row of colorful houses, Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust spotlighting local marine life, and excellent restaurant serving sustainable seafood. Even here, the focus is on the wild outdoors, with hill walking, whale-watching excursions and boat trips to weird Fingal's Cave, a 60-deep chasm of hexagonal pillars.
If you want to get a better view of the islands, you could climb up Ben More, the highest peak in Mull and the only island in the world outside of Scotland. The eight-mile return stomp to the amazing rock formations of the Carsaig Arches at Malcom's Point is an adventure you won't want to miss.
The island of Iona has a ferry ride from Fionnphort to it. The aim of the monastic community was to Christianize Scotland. The Book of Kells is said to be one of the most important illuminated manuscripts of the time. The island is now a place for solitude seekers and pilgrims. The island's spiritual center is the abbey.
There are many charming places to stay on Mull, from back-to- nature campsites to B&Bs and luxurious small hotels. The Green Shed is a lovely place with eco-friendly self-catering digs and sea views.
Lochaline to Fishnish and Tobermory to Kilchoan are CalMac's most popular routes.
If you love mountains and ancient abbeys, you might want to check out Mull & Iona.
It might not be for you if you want to just rock up.
The Vikings referred to it as sky-a, or cloud island, because of the clouds that hovered above the Cuillin Hills, which offer hikers and mountaineers some of Scotland's gnarliest peaks. The Isle of Skye is stunningly beautiful. An ethereal light squeezes through the clouds and bathes a rugged splendor that spans across the moors and the sea cliffs.
The kind of wilderness that Scotland is famous for is delivered by Skye. The best time to visit is in the spring or autumn. You can always find peace if you are willing to go further away.
You should bring your shoes. Some of the most soul-stirring trails in the country are hiked by hikers. If you want to see red deer and otter, you can take a short hike through the remote, boggy, Loch-speckled, strikingly beautiful glens of Strath Mor. Throw yourself in at the deep end with a five-mile trek up Sgrr Alasdair, the highest peak in the Black Cuillin. The isles of Rhum, Eigg and Canna can be seen from its summit. The Holy Grail for rock climbers is the InaccessiblePinnacle. It's possible that you need a guide.
Some say that the best way to see the coves and sea lochs is with a kayak and paddle in your hand. You can get out on the water at the White Wave outdoor centre.
The outdoors is the big draw, but when the mist descends or the dreich weather blows in, there are still plenty of things to do.
Campers, backpackers, and high-end hotels are just some of the places to stay in Skye. You should book in advance. The Cuillin Hills Hotel is located in Harborside Portree, which is the largest and liveliest town in the area.
The hostel is located in the old village school and has a mix of rooms.
When the bridge opened in 1995, it became a permanent tether to the mainland. There is no cost to cross the crossing. There is a bus service from Glasgow to Portree and Uig.
There are still some ferry links between the mainland and the island of Skye. The Outer Hebrides is served by ferries from Uig. It's very popular on weekends and in July and August. Six cars are allowed on the Glenelg–Skye Ferry on the Kylerhea crossing.
If you are a big fan of hiking and big mountains, you might want to check out Skye.
It might not be for you if you want to escape the crowd.
When the sun shines through the clouds on Outer Hebrides, it illuminates the velvet pleats of mountains, bracken-cloaked moors and machair-draped dunes that drop to frost-white sands. If you come in the spring or fall, you will feel like the last soul on the planet. There are times when you will forget the century we live in, such as walking barefoot on mile-long beaches, looking for otter footprints, or seeing a fiery sunset after a storm.
These glorious isles are isolated, windy and treeless places that have traditionally been home to fishing, weaving and livestock. Scottish Gaelic is a working language and you will hear it everywhere.
The main island, Lewis and its southern Harris, is a great starting point, with out-of-this-world coastal scenery, traditional turf-roofed blackhouses, lonely peat bogs and the famous Harris Tweed.
North Harris is a paradise for hikers. South Harris has beautiful white-sand beaches like Luskentyre andScarista. They're all more enchanting when you're left alone.
The Butt of Lewis is located at the far northern tip of Lewis. The hinterland is mostly barren and covered in moss. The late-Neolithic standing stones of Callanish weigh in at some four and a half thousand years old and are comparable to the Great Pyramid of Giza.
The lonely Uist islands are a great place to observe nature and are connected by a causeway.
There are a lot of places to stay in the Outer Hebrides, from basic campsites and hostels to B&Bs and eco-friendly beach houses. During the dark, rainy months of October to March, a lot of accommodations close down. The Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust has amazing views and a dash of history. If you'd like to stay in a village of traditional blackhouses on the Isle of Lewis with the crashing Atlantic as your wake-up call, check out the Gearrannan Holiday Cottages.
There are flights from Edinburgh, Inverness and Glasgow to the island. There are flights between the two places. On Mondays and Saturdays there are flights from Glasgow to Benbecula. The planes land on the hard-sand beach at low tide so the schedule is dependent on the tides.
There are two or three CalMac ferries a day to Stornoway, one or two a day to Tarbert and Lochmaddy, and one a day to Castle Bay and Lochboisdale.
If you love wild scenery, beaches and prehistory, the Outer Hebrides may be for you.
If you want more action, the Outer Hebrides may not be for you.
The article was first published in May of this year.
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