The best of Banff and Jasper’s backcountry lodges – Lonely Planet

On the North American continent, there is a view of untamed nature.

The parks' historic backcountry lodges offer a comfortable refuge for hikers and skiers, despite the fact that a comfortable night's sleep doesn't always come easily.

Each lodge has its own setting, hosts and history, but all have simple amenities, minimal electricity and running water, and welcoming common spaces where travelers can gather to read, play cards or recount the day's adventures. The cost suddenly becomes worth it if the included home-cooked meals and freedom from setting up camp are taken into account.

The best national parks in Canada.

Skoki Lodge

There is a fresh-baked cake at Skoki Lodge, which is a National Historic site. It is hard to overstate the magic of arriving in the woodsy paradise at teatime after a 6.9 mile trek over the summits of Boulder Pass and Deception Pass. Weary hikers cross the threshold to find a table spread with goodies hot from the oven, local cheese and cold cuts, miniature teapots and a cozy pine-clad common room buzzing with the conversation of fellow explorers.

Skoki is just above camping in terms of Amenity. Toilets are simple and there is no electricity. There are six rooms upstairs with paper-thin walls and three private cabins with wood stove. Skoki can feel like a cozy place despite the simplicity. One of the most beautiful wilderness valleys in the world is surrounding the lodge.

Ed andVanessa mix gourmet dining with 1930s rusticity with international helpers. Beer and wine are available for purchase at the communal table where the dinners are served. After dinner, Ed chats with guests, happy to share the lodge's history or recommend his favorite hikes.

You can make it happen by going to www.skoki.com.

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Shadow Lake Lodge

Shadow Lake Lodge is located in a high, wild valley near Lake Louise. The log cabin was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway as a way station. The original lodge has been expanded by the Brewster family to include a dozen cabins.

The creature comforts are a pleasant surprise. There is a shared washhouse with hot water and big beds with wool blankets that are illuminated by light. Hikers are treated to afternoon tea, followed by a three-course dinner with wine and beer for sale. The lodge's original cabin is large enough for guests to sit on comfy couches and talk. The view of Mt Ball can be seen from the meadow.

Shadow Lake is still a must-visit for modern-day visitors. The Redearth Trail is open to mountain bikers for the first 6 miles. The more challenging approach routes can be found over 7,546 ft of the pass.

You can make it happen by going to shadowlakelodge.com.

Getting around in Canada.

Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge

The Tonquin Valley is a world apart because of the castellated ridge known as the Ramparts. Kable and Sara Kongsrud have hosted winter and summer guests at the Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge for more than 20 years. The lodge was bought by Kable in 1992 after he worked as an equestrian outfitter. The Kongsruds offer multi-day horseback trips.

Hikers and skiers are welcome, but not for the faint hearted. The valley is known for mosquitoes and mud, both of which can be found on the 14-mile summer trek over Maccarib Pass.

This is a wilderness that is rare and beautiful. It's easy to settle into nature worship and retreat from the modern world at the remote outpost with its network of boardwalks. The lodge has rowboats that are moored on the lakeshore. In the main cabin with its wood stove blazing in the corner, bacon-and-egg breakfasts and dinners are served family-style at a round table with a giant lazy Susan.

Tonquinvalley.com has summer rates from $325 and winter rates from $185.

This winter, the great outdoors are the place to be.

Shovel Pass Lodge

At Shovel Pass Lodge, setting is the most important thing. Sheltered on a steep hillside from the icy shores of Curator Lake, the high country refuge features seven cabins with green metal roofs around a mountain glen. The décor is simple and the amenities are basic but no one is complaining.

Hikers can navigate the entire 28.6-mile route in just two days, without lugging tents, sleeping bags or cooking equipment, because the lodge sits at the halfway point of the trail. Mary Schffer named the pass after having to dig through the snow using shovels improvised from tree branches. The weather on the trail is changeable and thigh-deep snow can slow hikers down in July.

There is no better way to wake up than to receive a thermos of hot water on your doorstep at 7:30 am and a home-cooked breakfast to start the day. The rest of the way back to Jasper is downhill.

You can make it happen by going to skyline trail.com.

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The article was first published on August 27th.