A business reporter.

Luisa Vicinanza-Bedi and cocoa farmer, Carmen Magali Eraso AdarmeImage source, Luisa's Vegan Chocolates
Image caption, Luisa Vicinanza-Bedi (right) and Colombian cocoa farmer Carmen Magali Eraso Adarme

Luisa's vegan chocolates are made by an artisan chocolate maker inNottingham.

She says that when she discovered all the tastes and flavours of single-origin chocolate, her eyes were open.

A lot of the chocolate we eat is made from cocoa from a number of farms.

MsVicinanza-Bedi believes that using a single bean variety gives the chocolate a unique flavour.

She says that they trade directly with their farmers. A cut test, weight test, aroma test, and pilot line taste are some of the things we do.

Professor Irene Chetschik heads up the Research Group for Food Chemistry at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences (ZHAW)Image source, ZHAW
Image caption, Prof Irene Chetschik has developed a more controlled way to ferment cocoa beans

It's the same if you think about wine or coffee. Different parts of the world have different climates and soils. They all have different tastes.

Scientists are trying to figure out where the special flavours come from.

The research group for food chemistry is headed by Prof. Chetschik.

To get the best out of each harvest and create consistent quality, she is developing new technological processes.

She says that there is more appreciation for the product now that we know where the bean is coming from.

Cocoa beans are traditionally ferment on the farm where they were grown

Splitting a cocoa podImage source, Marieke van der Velden
Image caption, Cocoa pods have to be split to extract the beans which are then fermented

The cocoapods are split into pieces. The beans are piled in baskets and left to heat up in the sun.

The beans are degraded byMicrobes in the environment

The beans are spread out in the sun.

Quality differences are a result ofmentation. Not every ferment works out well.

Cocoa beans that are over-fermented tend to have an acidic taste.

Cocoa beans fermenting under palm and banana leaves in VietnamImage source, Getty Images
Image caption, Once split, cocoa beans are left to ferment, here covered with palm and banana leaves

"Moist incubation" is a new technique in which cocoa beans are dried and then a solution containing alcohol is applied.

She says that this is easier to control than the other methods.

She says the taste is sweeter and fruitier.

Johannes Ansgar Schlter is a PhD student at ZHAW. Undesirable aroma components are not formed to the same extent as during traditional ferments.

Cocoa beans placed in a hole to ferment, at this farm in Mbau, DR CongoImage source, Getty Images
Image caption, At this farm in the Democratic Republic of Congo the beans are put in a hole to ferment

Farmers might benefit from better understanding of the process.

The majority of cocoa is grown on small family-run farms. Cocoa farmers live in poverty because of low yield and little power, and increasing profits do not reach them.

Joke Aerts from Tony's Chocolonely says that the cocoa value chain is not evenly divided.

Millions of cocoa farmers are not paid enough.

It has been 20 years since the big chocolate companies promised to eliminate child labour in cocoa. It's time to stop the prioritisation of company profits.

Cocoa farmers are also vulnerable to weather changes.

Climate change will cause land suitable for cocoa production to decrease in the near future.

The impact of climate change on the business is something that experts say is important to understand.

There is a lot of rain. It's not good for the plantations.

Cocoa beans dryingImage source, Marieke van der Velden
Image caption, Cocoa farming and processing is typically not a very profitable business

The cocoa plantation is set on a very steep hill. Heavy sacks of beans on their backs make access difficult.

A project is being worked on with the aim of getting a better flavour and price from the beans.

Researchers and farmers are able to analyse the microbes that ferment cocoa beans.

Improved understanding of what drives the taste of chocolate can be used to improve it.

MsVicinanza-Bedi says that they have used DNA to confirm what a good flavour is of a cocoa bean. Farmers are taught how to maximize their cocoa for the premium market.

Cocoa beansImage source, David Gopaulchan
Image caption, Improving the flavour of beans can boost a farmer's income

The beans were used to make single origin bars.

Ms Adarme was able to send her son to college because of the increased profits. She wants to make her work easier and safer.

Cocoa growing is a very risky business according to Dr David Goupaulchan. Depending on weather, pests and diseases, yields can vary a lot.

Dr Goupaulchan has been studying how the environment affects the growth of the microbes and how they affect flavour development. The Royal Society Summer exhibition will feature his research.

Cocoa quality and taste can be affected by the fermentation process. These processes are not easy to control. Quality varies between farms.

He explained that a better understanding of the process would result in better chocolates for consumers and better prices for farmers.

He hopes that science can be used to create sustainable livelihoods for all.

The cocoa needs less processing after it ferments, so Prof. Chetschik wants to get the best out of the cocoa.

Cocoa is very rich in flavour. She says there is no need to add anything to the Molecules.

  • Agriculture
  • Nottingham
  • Food
  • Chocolate
  • Colombia