I boarded the new Holland America Line ship in the expectation of a less strict mask culture. That is not what I found.

I checked into the Rotterdam mid-cruise as it called in Bergen, Norway, catching a lift on the second half of a seven-day cruise ahead of the ship's naming ceremony in the Netherlands on May 30.

I was surprised to find a discipline for mask-wearing I haven't seen in a long time, as I explored the 2,668-passenger ship for the first time, roaming its 12 decks with guests mid-voyage.

While crew members wore masks, as I had seen on every other ship I have been on, passengers dutifully wore masks in most places, like when trying their luck at the slot machines in the casino and watching a quartet sing songs of the ages in the World Stage.

Some guests were still wearing masks while tapping their feet to the rhythms, even with a drink in front of them, as I stood in the back of B. B. King's Blues Club that night. A woman wearing a mask is dancing in the front row.

The mask discipline was born of an unfortunate development according to Wessel Oorschot, hotel general manager for the Rotterdam. On its last voyage, masks were only recommended. The ship had an increase in cases among guests and some crew members.

The indoor pool, outdoor spaces, and seated dining areas were often maskless, despite the fact that management instituted a mask mandate on the ship.

We want to make sure we don't have it carry over one cruise after another. Oorschot said that the cruise was doing well.

I wore a mask on my last cruise three weeks ago. Guests were expected to wear masks, but masks were optional for everyone but the crew.

Oorschot said that cruises are still one of the safest places. I cannot. No one can unless you stay at home.

The severity of Covid-19 variant has lessened and the CDC has lowered its masking requirements. As of February, cruise lines were no longer required to mandate passengers wear masks to comply with the CDC standards under the Covid-19 Program for Cruise Ships operating in U.S. waters.

Crew members are tested every two weeks on a weekly rotation, or immediately if they develop any symptoms. Logistical challenges for the line are introduced by positive cases, which are lower in the current variant.

A lot of our guests are a little bit older, so it could be more severe for them.

Crew members who test positive for Covid must stay off the floor for at least six days. Holland America will place Covid-positive guests and crew in negative-pressure cabins. Guests will disembark from the line and pay their food bill at partner hotels.

It is even more complicated for American guests who need to test positive to return to the U.S.

It's not clear how long the mask mandate will last.

Verpalen said that they still have people who are not happy because they have to wear a mask.